LAYING INSTRUCTIONS

- HOW TO LAY YOUR GLUED WOODEN FLOORING FROM RAPPGO.

LAYING INSTRUCTIONS FOR RAPPGO'S NAUTIC FLOORING

The flooring is laid like a normal floating floor.
Download the laying instructions as a PDF.

RAPPGO NAUTIC RUBBER STRIP 5 MM

The difference between normal laying is that a rubber strip is placed between each board. The Rappgo Nautic rubber strip is 5 mm wide.

THIS IS HOW IT'S DONE:

When you've finished laying a row, lay the rubber strip on the upper side of the tongue. There is a milled groove specially adapted to the profile of the rubber strip. Press the rubber strip into position (should not be glued) and cut to size at the wall. This prevents joints in the middle of the floor. Then glue a new row of boards and repeat the process with the rubber strip, and so on.
 

HOW TO LAY YOUR GLUED RAPPGO FLOORING

DIAGRAM 1.

Lay the first board 8-10 mm (in a normal-sized room) from the wall with the groove side towards the wall. Insert distance wedges between the board and the wall. If the wall is crooked, draw the wall contours on the first board. Then saw the board to the drawn contours so that they follow the unevenness of the wall.

DIAGRAM 2.
When you finish a row, turn the board so that tongue lies against tongue and measure and then saw the board.. Then turn the sawn side of the board towards the wall, glue the end joint
DIAGRAM 3.
Press the joint together with a crowbar. Insert a wedge between the end of the board and the wall.
DIAGRAM 4 A/B
Start the next row with the sawn board. The end joints shouldn't be closer to each other than 50 cm. Insert distance wedges at the end of the board. Row after row is done in the same way. Glue the groove's upper surface, press and hammer together. If there is underfloor heating, glue both upper and lower surfaces of the groove (double gluing).Never hammer the tongue or groove directly. Use a block of wood. Completely glue end and longitudinal joints. Use a wood glue such as Cascol wood glue (3304) or similar. N.B. The first two boards must lie perfectly straight. Check this with a chalk line.
DIAGRAM 5.
The last board usually has to be sawn down its length. Lay the last board directly over the next-to-last board. Take a short piece of another board, turn the tongue towards the wall and draw the contour of the wall onto the last board. Thereafter, saw the board following the drawn line. Prize in the last board with the help of a crowbar. Protect the wall with a piece of wood. N.B. If you have to saw off a large part of the last row against the wall, it would be more attractive to cut the boards of the first and last rows by the same amount. Always check the width of the room before you start laying the boards.
DIAGRAM 6.
Door architraves: Lay a loose piece of board against the architrave and saw as shown in the diagram. The floor is then slid under the architrave.
DIAGRAM 7.
Heating pipes: Drill a hole 2 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe.

DIAGRAM 8.

Along the edge of the board: Saw out the back piece with a jig-saw. Angle the saw approx. 45 degrees. Also saw with a 45 degree angle between the holes. Check the fit of the back piece.

 


DIAGRAM 9
Once the board is in place, glue the sawn out back piece. Squeeze this into place with a wedge and cover the holes around the pipe with plastic collars. On the end of a board: The same procedure but cut the board here straight over the holes with the saw at an angle of 45 degrees. Columns or similar: Cut out the necessary shape by sawing across the board and by chiselling out the waste, lengthwise.
DIAGRAM 10.
Skirting boards: Press the skirting board down with a piece of board whilst you attach the skirting board to the wall. The skirting board should not be pressed against the floor so hard that locking occurs. Door openings: in door openings, the floor should be fitted with an expansion joint, taking into account the different movements in the floors. The expansion joint can be covered with a strip of wood or metal. After laying the floor, the wedges can be removed and the skirting boards can be fitted. If further work is to be carried out in the room, the flooring should be covered with hardboard, paper or similar, in order to avoid damage. It must be material that "breaths".
DIAGRAM 11.
This is how 22 mm boards are laid on joists: Lay the boards at right-angles to the joists. As required, saw down the length of the first board so that it follows the contours of the wall. Start each new row with the piece of board sawn off from the last board of the previous row. The first board is fixed with two nails or screws in each of the joists. Nail or screw one of these through the top of the board just before the groove starts. Clip off the head of the nail and drive the nail down with a punch. Use a filler to cover the nail hole. The other nail or screw ...
DIAGRAM 12.
... is hammered or screwed, in the same way as all the other nails or screws - at an angle inwards through the lowest part of the tongue. The first and last boards adjacent to the walls are nailed or screwed through the top of the boards. 60/2.3 galvanised wire nails are most suitable. Do not glue along the lengths of the boards and do not glue the boards to the joists. Glue all end joints, however. Joints do not have to occur directly over the joists. N.B. Two adjacent boards should not be jointed between the same joists.

OUR PRODUCTS

White Ash
Oak
Pine
Douglas Spruce
Walnut
Rappgo Collection
Swedish Classics
Accessories

ABOUT RAPPGO

About Rappgo
Contact
Environment and quality
Press
Vacant positions
Partners

CONTACT

Rappgo AB
Mörkaskog, 363 91
BRAÅS - SWEDEN
Phone: 0474 - 553 00
Email: info@rappgo.se